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FISHING => METHODS => Topic started by: John Pierce on May 02, 2018, 06:44:04 PM

Title: FLY FISHING: Chironomids
Post by: John Pierce on May 02, 2018, 06:44:04 PM





Title: FLY FISHING: Chironomids
Post by: John Pierce on May 02, 2018, 07:01:39 PM

FISHING: General

FISHING: Larvae Stage

FISHING: Pupae Stage

FISHING: Adult Stage
Title: Re: FLY FISHING: Chironomids
Post by: John Pierce on February 04, 2021, 06:45:25 AM
From GRR Member Jim MacDonald @ 2021-02-03:

I attended a seminar in 2009 on Chronomid Fishing by Tom Lam. Attached are my notes of this event. GRR Members should find it interesting. You have to keep in mind that this is one man's opinion and Tom Lam is considered to be an expert in this field.

Since I fished from a Belly Boat, I had to make several changes.  It is difficult to double anchor, or, even to find space to store anchors and rope, I try to stay in a stationary spot by using my flippers in lieu of an anchor, I have used a single anchor and use fins to stop rotating..  Like Ron, I use a 10 foot 5 weight rod.  The big difference is by using a Deep Six Sinking Line.  Short leader, 4 feet and 4 pound test. mono. My favorite Lake for this type of fishing is Langford.  There is a pretty deep trough close by the Aerator, close meaning about 50 meters toward shore . When Island Outfitters maintained a "Leaderboard'', most if not  all of the large trout were from Langford and most in the 6 to !0 pound range. This setup also has success when one uses "Balanced Leeches". Same method of depth calculation using, in my case forceps attached to the hook.

Seminar notes below and attached as pdf file.

Chironomid Fishing – Tom Lam
April 4,2009

* Fish about 12 inches from bottom.
* Exceptions: Bloom, dense layer of mud, or water temperature inversion, then you must fish over top of these obstructions.
* Hookset should be on the upper lip. If on the side gill plate, you are fishing 12 inches too deep. If on the tongue, or lower jaw, then you are 2 feet too deep
* Depth is more important than fly selection.

* Two anchors, one 12 lb, bow, the other 10lb, transom.
* Rope, not poly, to hard on hands.
* Two rods, either 4 or 5 weight.
* Floating shooting head taper. One size larger than rod weight, ie, if using 5 weight rod, line should be 6 weight. This allows the rod to load faster when making casts.
* A rod leash helps from losing rod. A Velcro wrap connected to a small diameter rope.
* One end attaches to the boat and the Velcro strap wraps around rod handle.
* A large fluorescent indicator, size 6, connected to leader with tooth pick.
* To remove tooth pick from line when playing a fish, extend rod over head and allow line to come close. Tooth pick can now be removed.
* Do not use tapered leaders. They will not hang down straight
* Leader Formula: Butt end 8 lb test, minimum 10 feet long. Mid section 6lb test, 8 feet long. Both butt section and mid section are mono filament. Purchases Trilex 8 and 6lb test from Canadian Tire.
* Tippet is fluorocarbon in 4lb, but be certain to use the appropriate xx size as diameter is important. Which in this case is 1X (010)
* The leader makeup consists of a loop attachment to the fly line, a Perfection Loop is preferred. This knot allows the line and leader to slide easily through the guides. The mid section is affixed to the butt section with a triple Surgeons Knot. Connection of the mid section to the tippet is by means of a swivel. The swivel is connected to both ends using a Duncan Loop Knot. These loops should be no longer than 1⁄2 inch. The fly can now be attached to the tippet using another Duncan Loop. These loops and swivels allow the fly to hang straight down in the water.
* Leader length, Butt section is the only variable; it must be no shorter than 10 ft, however shortening may be required when fishing in depths of 19 feet, and no longer than 14 ft. This allows the greatest opportunities for fishing in water depths of 19 feet or water. When fishing in 24 to 26 feet of water, add an additional foot of line on the butt per one foot increase in depth. Nineteen feet to 26 feet of depth are the parameters for fishing Chironomids, with 24 to 26 feet being the most productive depths.
* The mid section is maintained at 8ft and the tippet at 4ft long. After changing flies and the tippet is less than 2 ft long, it is time to renew the 4 ft tippet section.
* Leader must be kept straight. Weights include wrapping fly using 0.010 lead wire, bead heads and slim tied flies.. The swivels used in connecting leaders come in three sizes. Color of swivels, gun metal grey, and are available at Canadian Tire manufactured by Mustad and weigh 3.3 grains, yes quite small.
* Reels should be wide arboured with a minimum of 100 yards of backing. Cut fly line to attain this measurement.

* Look for an area with a drop off.
* Before anchoring, row a 60 foot diameter of location of area you are interested in fishing. Observe the bottom of the fishing zone using a depth sounder. This information not only gives a definition to the topography, but also can provide indicators of the bottom, i.e.. Muddy, height of vegetation and perhaps indicates a temperature inversion. Best depths are 20 to 24 feet.
* Anchor and turn off sounder. Fish with appropriate length of leader.
* If no activity, be prepared to move to a deeper or shallower area.
* The maximum casting distance should be no greater than 25 feet. This is why the rod is loaded quickly using a heavier shooting line.
* When fishing a new lake, it takes at least one week to understand the lifecycle of fish and habitat.
* A typical rod used for Chironomids can be obtained from Phil Vanderploeg. It is a Trailmaster III manufactured by Eagle Claw and comes with a wide arboured reel. It cost $100.00 US. Phone: 1 360 354 3460, or philv@toysand

* On bright sunny days, use a dark colored fly. It's all about contrast.
* To determine color of Chironomid, using a stomach pump; make sure those being checked are alive. Dead ones coloration deteriorates quickly. To confirm coloration, it is helpful if you can look up through the bottom of the glass container.
*A bomber is a size 10 to 12.
*Bead head should be 1/6 size of body: 5/64 bead, size 16 hook; 3/32 bead, size 14 hook; 1/8 bead, size 14 hook.
* Preferred hook is a Daiicha Hook 2312, or 1260 in size 16. A straight hook is preferred over curved variety as it is easier to taper. Pinch Barb. An inexpensive source for Daiicha Hooks and Beads is; Canadian Llama Company.
* Gills are made from white polypropylene, cut short.
* Bead is inserted onto the hook with the large diameter hole close to the eye. Make sure there is sufficient room left for the tippet to go through.
* Body requires 8 to 9 segments. Segments are tighter at the bottom and increase in separation towards the eye of the hook.
* Collar, red to Brown thread wrapped behind bead
*Body is tied, in the case of a Chromie, very thin and tapered towards the head. It is important that after tying in the body wrap and the copper wire used for segmentation, that the thread skips over this area to maintain a slim taper. The thread, in this case black, is wound up and down the hook to obtain a good taper.
* The thread of choice is Ultra thread in 70 denier size. It can be untwisted by spinning in an anti clockwise direction to flatten out and allow a flatter and smoother transition. The thickness of the build up is dependant on the next layer of body material, in this case anti static bags sliced to 1/32 strips.
* Coat the thread lightly with "Hard as Nails" to allow the anti static strip to adhere to the thread body.
* When the fly is complete, coat the whole body with "lock tite" to fix rib and body. Two coats required.